Have a question about negative ease? How about yardage? Want to check for errata? You've found the right place.
Here I've gathered all the notes, suggestions, and helpful hints from other knitters, as well as any errata for my patterns.
If you think you've found some errata not listed here, or have some questions/suggestions, please email me.
Alatus
Here is a link to a chart of the Wings drawn up by jrj9
Anne Elliot Spencer
I forgot to add my yarn requirements to the pdf! I apologize for that.
I used this yarn, and it was about 2.5 balls of it (which is about 500 metres). That sounds like an awful lot, but it’s a very fine gauged yarn.
Calamus
Are you finding it too tight to work the stitches on the circulars?
I might suggest is that you just keep working on the dpns (after having reached either 120/132 sts) for about 4 or 5 rounds. This might give the knit enough space to expand out, as the increases are pretty rapid, and the 120/132 sts may just need the extra few rows to lax out and give you enough room to comfortably work them on the circulars.
Calavera Catrina
Clarification:
When working the short rows, the texts reads as such:
sl 1 st, w&t
The slipped st is the st that is wrapped.
Corona
Just scroll down to the bottom part of the post. Several very kind knitters have provided their notes.
C2F and C2B:
I’ve had a few questions regarding this technique, and there’s a number of ways you can complete this cable.
What I did was for a C2F, put 1 st on a cable needle at the front of the work, knit 1, then knit the stitch from the cable. Likewise for C2B, only you hold that extra stitch to the back.
Here is a thread on rav wherein they discuss another, non-cable-needle using way of doing this very same technique.
Negative ease:
Check out my post regarding this here.
Want to make a hoodless Corona? Another rav member, gypsyknitter, has kindly posted her beautiful mods here.
Yardage:
A few knitters who’ve created the size medium have found that, in DIC Classy, it only takes 3.5 skeins.
Notes on cable split:
Some knitters have asked me about how the v neck cable split happens. Here’s a link to a post where I’ve included a little schematic and some explanation.
Drift's Ridge
There's a pm missing on YOKE INCREASE #1 on the second line before *k2.
The second line READS:
"24, 24, 24, 24) more times, pm, k10 (10, 15, 15, 5, 5, 5, 5), *k2"
IT SHOULD READ:
"24, 24, 24, 24) more times, pm, k10 (10, 15, 15, 5, 5, 5, 5), pm, *k2"
Estivate
Knitter Bev has kindly suggested that it might be helpful to place markers at the end of a few repeats (eg, every 3 rep) so that errors will be quickly evident.
She's also noted that it may be easy to accidentally read the the edging stitches as part of the Vine Lace. If it's helpful, you can note that sl 1, k1 at the beginning and k2 at the end of each RS row in the vine lace instructions themselves.
Fawned
Legend Key for C3F should read: sl 2 to CN, hold in front, p1, k2 from CN
Chart 1, Row 24 should read: P5, C1B, C1F, P5.
Chart 1, Row 38 should read: P4, k2, p3, C1B, C1F, p3, k2, p4.
Chart 1, Rows 50 and 52: The last symbol should be C3B, not C3F.
Chart 2, Row 55 should read: K5, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k5.
Chart 2, Row 58: The last symbol should be C4B, not C4F.
Chart 3, Row 81 should read: K5, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k5.
Chart 3, Row 89 should read: K4, p2, k3, p4, k3, p2, k4.
Chart 3, Row 106 should read: P4, k2, p3, C1FP, C1BP, p3, k2, p4.
Chart 3, Row 109 should read: K4, p2, k3, p2, k3, p2, k4.
Chart 3, the pfb symbol should be performed as a p2tog.
Chart 3, the kfb symbol should be performed as a k2tog.
Galoshans
The pattern has a miscalculation for the Neckline decreases.
There should be TWO decreases at the neckline.
This is the proper wording:
Working in Basic Faggoting Flat, decrease 2 sts at the neckline by ssk, ssk on every fourth RS row.
Rep this pattern until 74 (80, 92) sts remain for Right Sleeve.
Piece should be 7 (8, 9)” from Neckline division.
Cast off all 74 (80, 92) sts.
Geo Delight
Josiphine has made a fantastic Geo Delight with a bunch of modification: added long sleeves, pockets, and square front edges. See her project page on Ravelry for more details.
Hew
French version, courtesy of Gabuzo. Thanks!
(French version is posted on the pattern page, along with the English version pdf).
Killdeer
In the Increasing Yoke section at the top of page 2:
IT READS
Increasing the Yoke
RS: Sl 1, k1, sm, *K to m, sm, kfb*, rep 4 (4, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7) more times, sm, k to 1 st before m, kfb, sm, k to end.
IT SHOULD READ
Increasing the Yoke
RS: Sl 1, k1, sm, *Kfb, k to m, sm*, rep 5 (5, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8) more times, k to end.
Lady Bat
In the ZigZag Lace Flat pattern, Rows 8, 10 and 12 should read: K1, [k2togtbl, yo] rep to 1 st before marker, k1.
A fantastic review of the process of knitting the pattern by mamatronic here. Including notes on gauge (if you’re perhaps a tight knitter).
Looking for a less bat wingy version? Check out Knitted Bliss' Lady Bat for some mods.
Lucania
Bobble instructions as written might not be entirely clear that you have to work the bobble over ONE stitch. As written, they begin: "K1, yo, k1, yo, k1....", This might imply three sts with two yos between.
But remember, it is meant to be worked over one stitch: "In to the same stitch, k1, yo, k1, yo...." This way your stitch count remains consistent with the rest of the chart.
Le Lapin Noir
A few clarifications, I oddly did not make in the pattern itself:
Gauge is measured over stockinette stitch, not ribbing.
Back of sweater is ribbed at the bottom (to match the front piece), and the rest is in stockinette stitch.
Lovegood
The lace pattern used on Lovegood is called “Snowflake”. It came from a stitch dictionary, and actual plays a bit of a mathematical trick on a few rows where its stitch count is raised higher than the noted 6+1 in the lace pattern.
The same Snowflake pattern can be found in this pattern here.
French version, courtesy of Gabuzo. Thanks!
(French version is posted on the pattern page, along with the English version pdf).
MidWinter Wanderer
Having a bit of trouble with the cable chart? cfabrication has posted a very helpful clarification on this post here.
Note on the cables: The cables need to be k on the RS and p on the WS to maintain the pattern. When you’re working in the back-and-forth section, don’t get confused by the chart symbols! You are indeed meant to k the k sts and p the p sts.
neferkiki has kindly done another version of the cable chart, this time with a chart key in French! Check it out here.
Milk Maiden
Quick errata note for any knitting the Milk Maiden pullover in size XL:
pg. 17
Begin Bust Ribbing
NOTE: you will have 111 sts for the front after finishing your ribbing, not 113.
Shape Neck
Next rnd: Sm, k to marker before ribbing, sm, k19, BO** 61** sts in patt, k19 to end of ribbing, sm, k to end of rnd.
The original pattern asks you to BO 63 sts, this is incorrect.
Paridae
Front Bust Increases
Published as:
RS: Work 18 sts in est pattern, *kfb* rep 6 (10, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 16) more times, k60 (64, 72, 92, 108, 132, 144, 144), *kfb* rep 6 (10, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 16) more times, work in est pattern to end of row.
But it SHOULD BE:
Front Bust Increases
RS: Work 18 sts in est pattern, *kfb* rep 6 (10, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 16) more times, k72 (76, 84, 104, 120, 144, 156, 156), *kfb* rep 6 (10, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 16) more times, work in est pattern to end of row
Sexy Vesty
The lace pattern is actually 18 rows, not just 17. The elusive 18th row is a knit row.
You can also check out the Sexy Vesty Mods & Questions thread in this group.
Mallo kindly created a lace chart for the Sexy Vesty, which you can see here.
AsheleyVN has posted clarified notes for the pattern for the neckline and up here on her blog.
whirlsie has kindly posted her mods here.
jmerwamer has posted the chart she created for the armholes here.
Thick Chill
I’ve written a post here about some FAQs I’ve had in regards to Thick Chill.
Thanks to everyone for your help!
Thrysos
Note: chart may be confusing. Please refer to the written instructions, which are correct.
Great mods for the bottom edge bind off from girlunravelled.
Some people have asked about the sleeve stitch markers: you don't *need* them, so if they're causing confusion you can absolutely take them off the needles.
Printed error: the last line of the sleeve bind off instructions says
"Bind off the 33 (36, 38, 42, 47, 54, 59) sts on holder." This is incorrect.
It should say:
"Bind off the 33 (36, 37, 40, 44, 54, 59, 64)"
Here I've gathered all the notes, suggestions, and helpful hints from other knitters, as well as any errata for my patterns.
If you think you've found some errata not listed here, or have some questions/suggestions, please email me.
Alatus
Here is a link to a chart of the Wings drawn up by jrj9
Anne Elliot Spencer
I forgot to add my yarn requirements to the pdf! I apologize for that.
I used this yarn, and it was about 2.5 balls of it (which is about 500 metres). That sounds like an awful lot, but it’s a very fine gauged yarn.
Calamus
Are you finding it too tight to work the stitches on the circulars?
I might suggest is that you just keep working on the dpns (after having reached either 120/132 sts) for about 4 or 5 rounds. This might give the knit enough space to expand out, as the increases are pretty rapid, and the 120/132 sts may just need the extra few rows to lax out and give you enough room to comfortably work them on the circulars.
Calavera Catrina
Clarification:
When working the short rows, the texts reads as such:
sl 1 st, w&t
The slipped st is the st that is wrapped.
Corona
Just scroll down to the bottom part of the post. Several very kind knitters have provided their notes.
C2F and C2B:
I’ve had a few questions regarding this technique, and there’s a number of ways you can complete this cable.
What I did was for a C2F, put 1 st on a cable needle at the front of the work, knit 1, then knit the stitch from the cable. Likewise for C2B, only you hold that extra stitch to the back.
Here is a thread on rav wherein they discuss another, non-cable-needle using way of doing this very same technique.
Negative ease:
Check out my post regarding this here.
Want to make a hoodless Corona? Another rav member, gypsyknitter, has kindly posted her beautiful mods here.
Yardage:
A few knitters who’ve created the size medium have found that, in DIC Classy, it only takes 3.5 skeins.
Notes on cable split:
Some knitters have asked me about how the v neck cable split happens. Here’s a link to a post where I’ve included a little schematic and some explanation.
Drift's Ridge
There's a pm missing on YOKE INCREASE #1 on the second line before *k2.
The second line READS:
"24, 24, 24, 24) more times, pm, k10 (10, 15, 15, 5, 5, 5, 5), *k2"
IT SHOULD READ:
"24, 24, 24, 24) more times, pm, k10 (10, 15, 15, 5, 5, 5, 5), pm, *k2"
Estivate
Knitter Bev has kindly suggested that it might be helpful to place markers at the end of a few repeats (eg, every 3 rep) so that errors will be quickly evident.
She's also noted that it may be easy to accidentally read the the edging stitches as part of the Vine Lace. If it's helpful, you can note that sl 1, k1 at the beginning and k2 at the end of each RS row in the vine lace instructions themselves.
Fawned
Legend Key for C3F should read: sl 2 to CN, hold in front, p1, k2 from CN
Chart 1, Row 24 should read: P5, C1B, C1F, P5.
Chart 1, Row 38 should read: P4, k2, p3, C1B, C1F, p3, k2, p4.
Chart 1, Rows 50 and 52: The last symbol should be C3B, not C3F.
Chart 2, Row 55 should read: K5, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k5.
Chart 2, Row 58: The last symbol should be C4B, not C4F.
Chart 3, Row 81 should read: K5, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k5.
Chart 3, Row 89 should read: K4, p2, k3, p4, k3, p2, k4.
Chart 3, Row 106 should read: P4, k2, p3, C1FP, C1BP, p3, k2, p4.
Chart 3, Row 109 should read: K4, p2, k3, p2, k3, p2, k4.
Chart 3, the pfb symbol should be performed as a p2tog.
Chart 3, the kfb symbol should be performed as a k2tog.
Galoshans
The pattern has a miscalculation for the Neckline decreases.
There should be TWO decreases at the neckline.
This is the proper wording:
Working in Basic Faggoting Flat, decrease 2 sts at the neckline by ssk, ssk on every fourth RS row.
Rep this pattern until 74 (80, 92) sts remain for Right Sleeve.
Piece should be 7 (8, 9)” from Neckline division.
Cast off all 74 (80, 92) sts.
Geo Delight
Josiphine has made a fantastic Geo Delight with a bunch of modification: added long sleeves, pockets, and square front edges. See her project page on Ravelry for more details.
Hew
French version, courtesy of Gabuzo. Thanks!
(French version is posted on the pattern page, along with the English version pdf).
Killdeer
In the Increasing Yoke section at the top of page 2:
IT READS
Increasing the Yoke
RS: Sl 1, k1, sm, *K to m, sm, kfb*, rep 4 (4, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7) more times, sm, k to 1 st before m, kfb, sm, k to end.
IT SHOULD READ
Increasing the Yoke
RS: Sl 1, k1, sm, *Kfb, k to m, sm*, rep 5 (5, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8) more times, k to end.
Lady Bat
In the ZigZag Lace Flat pattern, Rows 8, 10 and 12 should read: K1, [k2togtbl, yo] rep to 1 st before marker, k1.
A fantastic review of the process of knitting the pattern by mamatronic here. Including notes on gauge (if you’re perhaps a tight knitter).
Looking for a less bat wingy version? Check out Knitted Bliss' Lady Bat for some mods.
Lucania
Bobble instructions as written might not be entirely clear that you have to work the bobble over ONE stitch. As written, they begin: "K1, yo, k1, yo, k1....", This might imply three sts with two yos between.
But remember, it is meant to be worked over one stitch: "In to the same stitch, k1, yo, k1, yo...." This way your stitch count remains consistent with the rest of the chart.
Le Lapin Noir
A few clarifications, I oddly did not make in the pattern itself:
Gauge is measured over stockinette stitch, not ribbing.
Back of sweater is ribbed at the bottom (to match the front piece), and the rest is in stockinette stitch.
Lovegood
The lace pattern used on Lovegood is called “Snowflake”. It came from a stitch dictionary, and actual plays a bit of a mathematical trick on a few rows where its stitch count is raised higher than the noted 6+1 in the lace pattern.
The same Snowflake pattern can be found in this pattern here.
French version, courtesy of Gabuzo. Thanks!
(French version is posted on the pattern page, along with the English version pdf).
MidWinter Wanderer
Having a bit of trouble with the cable chart? cfabrication has posted a very helpful clarification on this post here.
Note on the cables: The cables need to be k on the RS and p on the WS to maintain the pattern. When you’re working in the back-and-forth section, don’t get confused by the chart symbols! You are indeed meant to k the k sts and p the p sts.
neferkiki has kindly done another version of the cable chart, this time with a chart key in French! Check it out here.
Milk Maiden
Quick errata note for any knitting the Milk Maiden pullover in size XL:
pg. 17
Begin Bust Ribbing
NOTE: you will have 111 sts for the front after finishing your ribbing, not 113.
Shape Neck
Next rnd: Sm, k to marker before ribbing, sm, k19, BO** 61** sts in patt, k19 to end of ribbing, sm, k to end of rnd.
The original pattern asks you to BO 63 sts, this is incorrect.
Paridae
Front Bust Increases
Published as:
RS: Work 18 sts in est pattern, *kfb* rep 6 (10, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 16) more times, k60 (64, 72, 92, 108, 132, 144, 144), *kfb* rep 6 (10, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 16) more times, work in est pattern to end of row.
But it SHOULD BE:
Front Bust Increases
RS: Work 18 sts in est pattern, *kfb* rep 6 (10, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 16) more times, k72 (76, 84, 104, 120, 144, 156, 156), *kfb* rep 6 (10, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 16) more times, work in est pattern to end of row
Sexy Vesty
The lace pattern is actually 18 rows, not just 17. The elusive 18th row is a knit row.
You can also check out the Sexy Vesty Mods & Questions thread in this group.
Mallo kindly created a lace chart for the Sexy Vesty, which you can see here.
AsheleyVN has posted clarified notes for the pattern for the neckline and up here on her blog.
whirlsie has kindly posted her mods here.
jmerwamer has posted the chart she created for the armholes here.
Thick Chill
I’ve written a post here about some FAQs I’ve had in regards to Thick Chill.
Thanks to everyone for your help!
Thrysos
Note: chart may be confusing. Please refer to the written instructions, which are correct.
Great mods for the bottom edge bind off from girlunravelled.
Some people have asked about the sleeve stitch markers: you don't *need* them, so if they're causing confusion you can absolutely take them off the needles.
Printed error: the last line of the sleeve bind off instructions says
"Bind off the 33 (36, 38, 42, 47, 54, 59) sts on holder." This is incorrect.
It should say:
"Bind off the 33 (36, 37, 40, 44, 54, 59, 64)"
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